A little language lesson to start
Through out this post you will see a lot of references to Han (한) because that’s how you say Korean in much of Asia. In Korean we say Hanbok for traditional clothing, Hangul for Korean language and we call Korea the country Hanguk. When I lived in China, I started learning how to speak and read Chinese. Mainland Chinese use pinyin which is modified character writing, and in pinyin this character 韩 means Korean (han). It is supposed to depict a Korean couple marrying, so perhaps Koreans have always been known for our fashion?
Childhood dreams
When I was a little girl in Korea, I loved looking at these bride and groom dolls that were in a plexiglass box. They wore our traditional clothing called hanbok (한복). I would dream of the day when I too was able to wear the dress of the bride (sinbu 신부), it was because I loved the dress so much especially with the braids in the hair and that little crown (jokduri 족두리).
I would say the most happiest of memories with my mother have always involved shopping. Before we came to settle in the states, she lived a life that revolved around seeing friends and going to Lotte (the best Korean Department Store in the 80’s) daily. However once a year she would take me to the tailor and we would have our hanboks custom made. She would always let me choose the colour. Of course, I would always choose a pale pink ramie fabric piped with a darker pink colour to match my mother’s dress.
Inspirations
Before kids, my mother was an art teacher . She has always drawn in a pretty style of some kind anime beauty. So when I look at Korean fashion today, I can see remnants of it in every women I knew. Beauty is for enhancing yourself to look your best, for instance even workers in a practical uniforms will wear pretty lipstick or a rhinestone clip in their hair. It’s because for Korean women beauty is not for men and to attract looks from the opposite sex.
We do it for ourselves and other women… to encourage, aspire and inspire… When I see a cute pair of shoes or stylish haircut on a female my first impulse is to admire it and then want the same for myself. You can see that they also applied this type of flair to even kids fashion.
Hanbok Tradition
Korean traditional garments and artistry influence into even today’s fashion. Rarely do you see a traditional hanbok out on the street anymore. In fact I think the last time my mom wore hers was at my wedding ceremony. To be appealing to younger people, Korean designers have modernized the hanbok by doing a fusion style. Fusion Hanbok which incorporates modern elements into tradition. For example they also make darling hanbok for kids in western fabrics like Liberty prints. Current Korean fashion has incorporated traditional influences into modern styles.
Jacket and Skirt
The jacket (jeoguri 저고리) I find is one of the biggest influencers of Korean fashion. The sleeve is voluminous and feminine. Today’s interpretation would be puff sleeve or gathered cuff. Korean people for most part prefer warmth over cold. Eastern medicine encourages that Koreans wear several layers, for instance you can see my mom wearing long sleeve cotton long johns (nebok 내복) even in summer.
Jackets for winter I think have evolved from jeoguri and magoja (마고자). Fuller jackets used to be for just males but now have become androgynous, and females also wear them. They often have a thin layer of padding inside to keep the wearer warm. My mother has stepped up and modified her jacket game with quilted Burberry style. The Korean jackets were traditionally closed with a bow from the jacket ribbons and usually we accessorize it with a charm (norigae 노리개) for good luck. Now you can understand why so many Koreans designers love of bows and cute accessories.
As a child I also remember whenever I wore a dress I would twirl and twirl. I love to see my skirt lift up in a circle. The best skirt in the world to twirl is a chima (치마). The chima is a long skirt, but its also has an empire waist. When I look at an empire waist dress, I think it’s the grandmother of the baby doll dress. Another way to customize your hanbok is to wear a contrasting petticoat under the chima. Seeing those bright colours peep out from under the skirt always makes me smile. It’s as if I have my very own fun secret under my hanbok.
Influenced by Nature, Love of color and detail
There is always inspiration by nature in Korean art. I remember as a child looking at the fancy furniture in rooms I was not allowed in. Mother of Pearl design on black lacquer depicting tigers and mountains. There were reversible embroidered screens, on one side there are vivid colours of birds and flowers, and on the other side Korean Folk prints ( minhwa 민화) with splashes of dramatic calligraphy. The muted green of the celadon pottery with beautiful traditional patterns (gilsang 길상) that are displayed to bring luck and fortune to a home. Have always managed to look so classic that it could easily fit into the interior of any European manor house.
As a kid of the 1980’s, I remember being so proud of the 1988 Olympics in Seoul. I think that was the start of South Korea being taken seriously as a country in international circles. The mascot for the 1988 Olympics was a tiger (hoyangi 호랑이) named Hodori and he was a representation of the Korean people. The national animal of South Korea is the tiger, it symbolizes of power and authority. The leopard even has a particular significance, they are in a minhwa that on every lunar new year it is hung in homes to ward off evil.
My favourite (and most common) nursery song for child is called Santoki (산토끼). Strangely enough when I sing it I think of my mothers nebok because even as an adult there were sweet bunnies printed all over it. I always find this rather cute that my mother and my son share similar under garments. The thing is for Koreans you are never to old to wear bunnies.
East meets west
It’s funny that I equate memory with clothing, my entire history of being can be wrapped up in a closet. I remember when we moved to America for school picture day my mom dressed me up those cute plaid (Burberry of course) outfits for school and everybody made fun of me. The kids in class said I looked like an old lady. Now when I think about it, that was fashion.
It’s the same way when I wander the streets of Seoul. I see memories in architecture, where else can a historic building like Namdaemun mark the entrance to a fashionable shopping district? By taste and smell my past also come alive because nothing brings me back like Korean street food. Since I haven’t been able to go to Korea for 2 years now, it’s been a hard to live so far from Asia. That’s why I especially feel nostalgic when I wear Korean clothes.
Now when I see the clothing my mother chose for me growing up I realize how truly innovative her taste was. Her taste comes from her traditions and that’s what makes it so special. Like the beautiful palaces set between sleek skyscrapers, we can always add new to the old and make it modern.
